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Constructing Finnish boots and pitch thread

Constructing Finnish boots and pitch thread

On top of the oven is a two-turn swivel blade Finnish boots made by shoemaker Vihtori Heikkinen in 1985. They are handmade from leather. The full-length, fold-over shaft has been regarded as a legacy of the Swedish Carolean Army’s riding boots. Such Finnish boots were made for use by coachmen and lumberjacks. They have been exhibited at exhibitions of the Cottage Industry Association around North Savo.

 

Constructing A Finnish boot

When a shoemaker begins to plan a pair of shoes for a customer, first, the measurements of the customer’s feet are taken. Then, the appropriate shoe last is selected. If the shoemaker does not have the appropriate shoe last readily available, such can also be elaborated out of wood. Shoemakers used to adapt readymade shoe lasts as well by attaching a temporary filling to them, such as leather, pasteboard or wood. Shoemaking is also custom work!

Before, untreated tanned leather was made at home or in a leather pot was used from raw skins to make the shoes. Today, Shoemakers mainly use industrial tanned leather. Traditionally, Lappish boots were sewn using waxed thread and boar bristle. Due to the difficult availability of boar bristle, some shoemakers shifted to the use of needles. A shoemaker’s pitch used to be sold also in packages, but every shoemaker also possessed their own personal pitch recipes. Formerly, tar has been used, but the pitch could also have been mixed with, for example, building pitch or paraffin. The pitch protects the thread from decay, and clogs the holes made by the stitching awl. Often, the glues employed were also self-made. Not until the wars did instant adhesives, or contact adhesives, come to the market.

Every individual shoemaker has their own style of doing their work; the same result can be achieved from a number of different ways. Sewing, winding waxed tapers to boar bristles, as well as leather thinning, all require their due amount of practice. For example, Finnish boots’ shafts are sewn dry, whereas the flanks (the sides of the shoe) and the vamp (the upper front part of the shoe) are, again, wetted. A skilled shoemaker is able to determine when leather has been made suitably damp to be sewn.

Names of parts of a Finnish boot: A. Waistband B. Shaft C. Upper, Fold or Vamp D. Buckle E. Outer sole F. Heel G. Strap H. Leather or platform I. Shoe sides, edges or flanks, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
Names of parts of a Finnish boot: A. Waistband B. Shaft C. Upper, Fold or Vamp D. Buckle E. Outer sole F. Heel G. Strap H. Leather or platform I. Shoe sides, edges or flanks, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU

 
Constructing pitch thread:

  • Winding the pitch thread, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Winding the pitch thread, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Cutting the pitch thread after winding, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Cutting the pitch thread after winding, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Aligning the pitch thread, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Aligning the pitch thread, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The pitch thread and the tapered end (sock) of the weft thread are made by twisting the threads together, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The pitch thread and the tapered end (sock) of the weft thread are made by twisting the threads together, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Twisting the pitch thread,1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Twisting the pitch thread,1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Vihtori Heikkinen twists the pitch thread, 1982. The best way to twist the whole thread is with a worn trouser hitch or against a leather patch glued to the fabric. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Vihtori Heikkinen twists the pitch thread, 1982. The best way to twist the whole thread is with a worn trouser hitch or against a leather patch glued to the fabric. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Twisting the pitch thread, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Twisting the pitch thread, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Pitching the threads with a leather patch in 1982. The threads are pitched immediately after twisting. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Pitching the threads with a leather patch in 1982. The threads are pitched immediately after twisting. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Attaching the bristle to the pitch thread, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Attaching the bristle to the pitch thread, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • When the rotation is completed, the thread is opened at this point with a straight awl and the bristle is threaded through it to make a knot, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    When the rotation is completed, the thread is opened at this point with a straight awl and the bristle is threaded through it to make a knot, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Finally, a knot is made to hold the bristle in the pitch thread, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Finally, a knot is made to hold the bristle in the pitch thread, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • The pitch thread is treated with stearin. Treated thread slips better during sewing and stearin prevents pitch getting into the leather, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    The pitch thread is treated with stearin. Treated thread slips better during sewing and stearin prevents pitch getting into the leather, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • Here’s another illustration of attaching the bristle: The twist is started around 5 cm from the tip of the bristle and ends near the base of the bristle. At the point where the twisting ends, the thread is opened with a straight awl and the bristle is threaded through the loop that is made. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Here’s another illustration of attaching the bristle: The twist is started around 5 cm from the tip of the bristle and ends near the base of the bristle. At the point where the twisting ends, the thread is opened with a straight awl and the bristle is threaded through the loop that is made. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU

 

Constructing a Finnish boot:

  • Long-shafted Finnish boot design, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Long-shafted Finnish boot design, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Foot measurements taken by shoemaker Vihtori Heikkinen for making shoes, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Foot measurements taken by shoemaker Vihtori Heikkinen for making shoes, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Shoemaker Vihtori Heikkinen cuts the handle of a folded shaft Finnish boot blade, 1982. Swivel blade Finnish boots have had various names throughout Finland. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Shoemaker Vihtori Heikkinen cuts the handle of a folded shaft Finnish boot blade, 1982. Swivel blade Finnish boots have had various names throughout Finland. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Before cutting the leather, the pattern was marked on the leather, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Before cutting the leather, the pattern was marked on the leather, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Shoemaker Vihtori Heikkinen cuts the edge, the corner of the shoe's sides, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén /KUHMU
    Shoemaker Vihtori Heikkinen cuts the edge, the corner of the shoe's sides, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén /KUHMU
  • Cutting the cover (vamp), 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Cutting the cover (vamp), 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • At the edge of the shaft is sewn to the back-slit edge by machine, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    At the edge of the shaft is sewn to the back-slit edge by machine, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • Eyelets are fixed to the stitch line, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Eyelets are fixed to the stitch line, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • Quilting of a piece, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Quilting of a piece, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The edges of the cover (vamp) will be thinned before attachment, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen /KUHMU
    The edges of the cover (vamp) will be thinned before attachment, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen /KUHMU
  • The cover is sewn to the inside for sewing with auxiliary attachment, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen /KUHMU
    The cover is sewn to the inside for sewing with auxiliary attachment, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen /KUHMU
  • The cover is sewn to the shaft with piercing, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    The cover is sewn to the shaft with piercing, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • The cover (vamp) was sewn to its place, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The cover (vamp) was sewn to its place, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • After that, sewing behind the shaft begins, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    After that, sewing behind the shaft begins, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • A stitch is inserted when sewing the stitch seam. Tere is made by cutting off the leather of the panel, which is thinned out, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    A stitch is inserted when sewing the stitch seam. Tere is made by cutting off the leather of the panel, which is thinned out, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The seam of the shaft is sewn on the inside starting from the lower end of the shaft, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    The seam of the shaft is sewn on the inside starting from the lower end of the shaft, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • Sewing the back of the shaft on the sewing stand, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Sewing the back of the shaft on the sewing stand, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • A heel pad is also put on the arm, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    A heel pad is also put on the arm, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The back seam of the shaft is almost complete, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The back seam of the shaft is almost complete, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • When the back of the shaft is sewn, the inside seam is smoothed with a knife, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    When the back of the shaft is sewn, the inside seam is smoothed with a knife, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Next, the shaft is turned to the right, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Next, the shaft is turned to the right, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Shaft sewn and turned to the right, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Shaft sewn and turned to the right, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Excess leather (tere) cut off from outside of shaft, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Excess leather (tere) cut off from outside of shaft, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Sewing the back of the heel, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Sewing the back of the heel, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • The edge of the heel joint is thinned, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The edge of the heel joint is thinned, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The edge of the heel joint is also rotated before being installed, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The edge of the heel joint is also rotated before being installed, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • When the heel is completed, it will be attached to the back seam, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    When the heel is completed, it will be attached to the back seam, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Attaching the heel joint to the back stitch, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Attaching the heel joint to the back stitch, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • The sides of the shoe (edges) are attached to the shoe upper (vamp). The first sewing session (thin stitch) is made with 3-thread pitch thread, 1978. A skilled shoemaker can do this with a sewing stand too - it's easier for a beginner to use a shoe last. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    The sides of the shoe (edges) are attached to the shoe upper (vamp). The first sewing session (thin stitch) is made with 3-thread pitch thread, 1978. A skilled shoemaker can do this with a sewing stand too - it's easier for a beginner to use a shoe last. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • The loose fit of the shoe is removed by shrinking dampened leather, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    The loose fit of the shoe is removed by shrinking dampened leather, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • Finnish boot nose sewing. The beak hardener is inserted into the beak stitch, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Finnish boot nose sewing. The beak hardener is inserted into the beak stitch, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • For the second sewing, use a 7-thread twill (thick-mesh). The thick pebbles are tightened using shoelaces, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    For the second sewing, use a 7-thread twill (thick-mesh). The thick pebbles are tightened using shoelaces, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • Next, the sides (edges) of the shoe and the back of the shoe are fitted in place, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Next, the sides (edges) of the shoe and the back of the shoe are fitted in place, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • Before the ankle sewing, the buckle is also fastened, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Before the ankle sewing, the buckle is also fastened, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • When sewing the ankle part, the buckle is sewn at the same time to the seam, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    When sewing the ankle part, the buckle is sewn at the same time to the seam, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • When the ankle part is sewn at the base, the rubbed leather is inserted, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    When the ankle part is sewn at the base, the rubbed leather is inserted, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The ankle strap is sewn to the other side of which is attached to the buckle, 1982. Photo. Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The ankle strap is sewn to the other side of which is attached to the buckle, 1982. Photo. Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The Vertical Sewing spot will be marked, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The Vertical Sewing spot will be marked, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Vertical Sewing, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Vertical Sewing, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The excess leather cut from behind the heel, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The excess leather cut from behind the heel, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The excess leather cut from behind the heel, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The excess leather cut from behind the heel, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The ankle sewing threads are tied inside the ankle and the ends of the buckle straps are cut off from the inside, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The ankle sewing threads are tied inside the ankle and the ends of the buckle straps are cut off from the inside, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Finnish boot after sewing, 1978. Bottom missing! Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Finnish boot after sewing, 1978. Bottom missing! Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • The toecap part of the sewn shoe is soaked in water before putting on the shoe last, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The toecap part of the sewn shoe is soaked in water before putting on the shoe last, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The edges of the insole are cut to the last size, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    The edges of the insole are cut to the last size, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • The insole is nailed to the last, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The insole is nailed to the last, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The insole was attached to the last, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The insole was attached to the last, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The shoe will be spread for putting the last, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The shoe will be spread for putting the last, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The last is put to the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The last is put to the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Putting the last to the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Putting the last to the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • A hammer can be used to help putting the shoe on the shoe last, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    A hammer can be used to help putting the shoe on the shoe last, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The Finnish boot's beak is pulled firmly on the last before the covering begins, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The Finnish boot's beak is pulled firmly on the last before the covering begins, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Finnish boots attaching to the last starts, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Finnish boots attaching to the last starts, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • All edges are carefully attached, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    All edges are carefully attached, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • When the attaching is finished, the triangles are cut at the edges of the sides of the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    When the attaching is finished, the triangles are cut at the edges of the sides of the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The triangles are attached evenly, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The triangles are attached evenly, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The shoe cover (vamp) is finished, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The shoe cover (vamp) is finished, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The shoe cover (vamp) and the sides (edges) of the shoe can be smoothed, for example, with a hammer during the retreading step, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    The shoe cover (vamp) and the sides (edges) of the shoe can be smoothed, for example, with a hammer during the retreading step, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • Leather can also be smoothed with ironing blocks,1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Leather can also be smoothed with ironing blocks,1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • A shoemaker’s mitt can also be used for smoothing, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    A shoemaker’s mitt can also be used for smoothing, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • Every shoemaker has a little bit of his own way of making shoes. The leather can be patterned at this stage or just after the sole is made. However, the use of patterned iron requires moist leather, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Every shoemaker has a little bit of his own way of making shoes. The leather can be patterned at this stage or just after the sole is made. However, the use of patterned iron requires moist leather, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Shoe cover (vamp) patterning, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Shoe cover (vamp) patterning, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Finished pattern on the cover (vamp), 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Finished pattern on the cover (vamp), 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • After drying the leather on the sides of the shoe, attach the sides of the shoe (edge) to the last with wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    After drying the leather on the sides of the shoe, attach the sides of the shoe (edge) to the last with wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Covering nails are removed, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    Covering nails are removed, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • The sole is made of leveling leather, 1982. If the shoes were to be squeaky or nail, this piece could also have a piece of birchbark or alder. The creak of shoes has been an example of wealth. Making creak was a trade secret for shoemakers. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The sole is made of leveling leather, 1982. If the shoes were to be squeaky or nail, this piece could also have a piece of birchbark or alder. The creak of shoes has been an example of wealth. Making creak was a trade secret for shoemakers. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The midsole is fixed with a few wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The midsole is fixed with a few wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The midsole is cut to the right size and the edges are thinned, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The midsole is cut to the right size and the edges are thinned, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Next, the wedge (wreath) is attached with wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Next, the wedge (wreath) is attached with wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The base leather is soaked, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The base leather is soaked, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The sole is sketched using a shoe as a model, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The sole is sketched using a shoe as a model, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The base leather is fastened with wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The base leather is fastened with wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The sole is cut along the wedge (wreath), after which another base leather is attached. It is carved to the same shape, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The sole is cut along the wedge (wreath), after which another base leather is attached. It is carved to the same shape, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The base is marked for the row of wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The base is marked for the row of wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • To facilitate perforation, the awl is slipped with soap, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
    To facilitate perforation, the awl is slipped with soap, 1978. Photo: Juha Miettinen / KUHMU
  • Holes are made to the bottom for nailing with the awl, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Holes are made to the bottom for nailing with the awl, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The base is nailed with wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The base is nailed with wooden nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Nailed shoe sole, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Nailed shoe sole, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The ends of the wooden nails flattened, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The ends of the wooden nails flattened, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Next, the ends of the wooden nails are still rasped, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Next, the ends of the wooden nails are still rasped, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Rasp's imprint is cleaned with a piece of glass, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Rasp's imprint is cleaned with a piece of glass, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • A leveling wedge (wreath) is placed under the heel, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    A leveling wedge (wreath) is placed under the heel, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Extra pads of leather are cut into the base, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Extra pads of leather are cut into the base, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Leather patches are nailed to lift the heel, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Leather patches are nailed to lift the heel, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The excess is cut off the heel base, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The excess is cut off the heel base, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The rubber heel is nailed in place with steel nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The rubber heel is nailed in place with steel nails, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The nails are pushed deeper with the help of a striking iron, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The nails are pushed deeper with the help of a striking iron, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The excess is cut off the heel itself, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The excess is cut off the heel itself, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The heel is rasped flat, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The heel is rasped flat, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The edge of the base is polished with the shoemaker’s mitt by wetting and stroking. Stroking means polishing it until it’s lustrous, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The edge of the base is polished with the shoemaker’s mitt by wetting and stroking. Stroking means polishing it until it’s lustrous, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • First, the shaft reverse (the part that comes off the last) is removed from the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    First, the shaft reverse (the part that comes off the last) is removed from the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Then the last is removed from the shoe using a last hook, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Then the last is removed from the shoe using a last hook, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The shaft reverse and the last are removed from the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The shaft reverse and the last are removed from the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • If the wooden nails have come through the bottom, they are rasped out, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    If the wooden nails have come through the bottom, they are rasped out, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The soaked shaft is rectified on the log (that is, the wood pieces, called logs, are placed inside the shaft), 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The soaked shaft is rectified on the log (that is, the wood pieces, called logs, are placed inside the shaft), 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The logs are put inside the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The logs are put inside the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Pushing the wedge, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Pushing the wedge, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The calf arm circumference is measured, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The calf arm circumference is measured, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Turned and non-turned shaft. After drying, the shaft is polished with ironing blocks before turning, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Turned and non-turned shaft. After drying, the shaft is polished with ironing blocks before turning, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Folding shoe´s shaft, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Folding shoe´s shaft, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The turning of the shaft can be completed with a hammer, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The turning of the shaft can be completed with a hammer, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • A lace is placed behind the shaft, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    A lace is placed behind the shaft, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The lace is hooked behind the shaft, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The lace is hooked behind the shaft, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Tassels are placed on the ends of the lace, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Tassels are placed on the ends of the lace, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • Finished tassels at the ends of laces, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    Finished tassels at the ends of laces, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The shaft logs are removed from the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The shaft logs are removed from the shoe, 1982. Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
  • The size number is struck on the bottom of the shoe, 1982. Now the Finnish boot is ready! Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU
    The size number is struck on the bottom of the shoe, 1982. Now the Finnish boot is ready! Photo: Kari Jämsén / KUHMU

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In Shoemaker’s Shoes

  • In Shoemaker’s Shoes
  • Shoemaking step by step
  • Shoecare before and now
  • Constructing Finnish boots and pitch thread
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